Perfect for visual observations with very heavy mirrors. weight. Membership connects and supports the people and projects that shape our future and supports the learning It is used to setup water outlet from overhead water tanks. Shorter thread side will be used to attach the eyepiece. var pageTracker = _gat._getTracker("UA-1008534-4"); Rack & Pinion: For many years the standard focuser was of the rack-and-pinion type - a small pinion gear moved the flat toothed rack that was attached to or built into the moving focusing tube that holds the eyepiece.However, this geared system was far from ideal, with some wobble due to the friction fit between the fixed and moving tubes and backlash due to the gears. I hate focusing. I had already made a lightweight focuser for Using plywood, make 4 attachment blocks to pair the trusses together and create a small ledge for the secondary cage to rest on while you secure it. Brandon Lawler is a hobbyist telescope Maker and an active member of the Central Texas Astronomical Society. I would love to see your build when you are finished with it . Did you make this project? Interfaced with a computer, so the computer can make the decisions about where the best focus is. Please feel free to email me at the address on the right. More commercial crayford focusers are of a more enclosed form, whereas mine is more "open frame" approach. Newton, and others including James Gregory and Laurent Cassegrain, believed that a reflecting telescope would not be affected by the chromatic aberration that affected . From everything I had read, I expected that getting a sonotube would be as easy as running to any hardware store and picking it up. Thanks Pinbout for sharing your design. I built mine entirely from CNC-cut plywood, and fastened it together with 2 bolts. The project took several months off and on to complete, although a skilled Maker could put a similar one together in a few weeks. I phoned in the order in the last week of February and was told that it would take about 4 weeks to deliver the mirror. The pieces were cut down to 15 3/8 and 14 3/8, allowing just under 1/8 inch on each side. And the legs of the base should be as wide as possible to accommodate weight imbalance as the telescope is moved around, to avoid tipping. Nice looking telescope. It is size 1.25 inch with a clear inside dia-meter. 1N5408 3A Diode (you may need to make the pins smaller to fit through the holes in the board. PVC pipe makes great drawtubes. I marked the expected position of the secondary by measuring 61 inches down from the end of the tube. I even began taking careful notes about needed supplies and plans for each piece of the truss tube scope. The project creator Robert Brown made a good video on testing the board. Before finishing the tube with a wrap of veneer, I wanted to make sure that the primary was in the correct position. A bit of a monster! I knew that I would be returning the mirror cell to them, but just for fun I decided to see how it would fit in the tube. This motor is available on Amazon. Unfortunately I don't have a 3d printer. As I continued to read, however, I was struck by the many complications of the design and, frankly, how many ways I could screw it up. Look down through the empty focuser. I wanted to wrap the tube in veneer because I had seen a homemade telescope on a website that used veneer and I liked the look. This allowed me to cut perfect identical circles. I'd like, you can have as much focuser travel as you want no matter how This scope was originally made as a travel scope using an eight inch mirror that I ground and polished at the St Pete Astronomy Clubs Mirror Lab. OK, no, I do not have a homemade Crayford focuser but am planning to build a 3 incher for next years 17" reflector telescope project and to hold my new 30mm ES 100 degree EP. Trim off any unused fabric along the base. #@$%^#@!!!!! I Hope to give you ideas if you are thinking about building one for yourself! As I understand, you are using it for a refractor. try { large in diameter (1.6") so that adds to the fine-ness of the focus that is a great website that guy has some fantastic photos. Featured in the February, 2015 issue of Sky & A Pocket Sundial From a Broken Pocket Watch! Fairly easy to build and could be adapted to suit any SCT focuser. To make the hole for the focuser, I used the focuser tube to mark a circle in the shroud. This combination has the best resolution (steps/revolution), so I didn't see any reason to build anything else. Here is a link to the main FILES area on Robert Brown's site. Im sorry to hear you couldn't make the contest. forces the knitting needle against the drawtube and the drawtube against This unit takes signals from your computer and drives the stepper motor on the focuser. pageTracker._trackPageview(); Because thebasic movement and optics requirements are relatively simple, much of the design is left to the builder. You will need to order one sized for your telescope's focuser shaft size. Knitting needles are Once I had my design set, I was ready to buy the parts. Focuser minimum height is 50 mm and maximum a little over 90 mm so it is good overall. The current needs to be adjusted on the DRV8825. on Step 5, 9 years ago Since my focuser shaft is 6mm, I ordered the coupler shown here in the 6mm to 8mm version from Amazon. The rocker sides are each made of two identical pieces of inch plywood glued together, creating two sides one inch thick. The core of the telescope, the steel mirror cell holds and adjusts the heavy, curved primary mirror. The arc at the top of the sides needed to have a radius 1/8 inch larger than that of the side bearings to account for the thickness of the teflon pads that would fit between. As the thread shows you could also build the dual speed version, all made of plywood, if you feel ready to tackle a slightly more complex project for a cost of about 5$ more. Thanks again for the 'ible. This resulted in a gear that wasn't true and "wobbled" a bit. Let me see if I can get similar plumbing parts here. Cost is $25 - $30, and you will have 5 PCBs in about a week. installations. Unbelievable! Best Wishes, Reply I sourced my own Stepper motor and 1:150 reduction gearbox from RS, who are just up the road. Our websites use cookies to improve your browsing experience. I had chosen a boxy, rigid design for the binocular scope, so With an outer diameter of 14 3/16, I cut the Tube Box sides 15 5/8 and 14 5/8slightly less than my extra inch extra on each side. astronowanabe, Pierre Lemay, LarsMalmgren and. While a sling or whiffletree provide the best edge support, a two-point edge support is much easier to construct. Although they don't usually sell these parts, because I had ordered the mirrors from them they offered to sell me the spider and secondary holder that they use in their scopes. If you wanted to really go low-profile with this design, the bearings right at the edge of the frame, reducing the frame to The sides were attached with wood glue and clamps with a few small brads to hold everything in place. You need to order it sized for your focuser shaft size. My guess is that photo was taken with a refractor. To cut the circles, I used a router with a straight cutting bit and a circle cutting jig. Make the drawtube longer than you think you'll need, just in You should watch (and bookmark) this video. on Step 1, interesting build, its just like my old Odyssey brand scope from the mid 1990's. It has become an indispensable piece of equipment for me that so beats hacking and filing PVC pipes etc. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. Star Adventurer Pro Pack Counter Weight Bar Thumb Screw Upgrade. CNC files (optional) Download the Sketchup files. Once Id built a CNC router, I embarked on my third telescope, featuring a 16 primary mirror with aluminum trusses, wide vertical bearing arcs, a steel front-adjustable mirror cell, and a rotating base. 3D Printed Futuristic Space Age Wall Clock, http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=0&Number=4721255. I Both cameras have fairly small megapixels by todays' standards, and are certainly obsolete, but do the job extremely well! work really well, for a fraction of the cost of a commercial Crayford I drew a guide line straight down the side of the tube and cut the veneer to length with one extra inch on each side68 inches long. But, especially on cold evenings, the focus may go out in the middle of the night. I do have another tube that can be used around the drawtube, but it doesn't really add anything. I'm only hoping to supplement it a bit with some info and pictures aimed at those with limited skills (such as myself) :-) I'm not an electrical engineer, I'm more of a software guy with some limited knowledge of electronics and basic soldering and assembly skills. A project collaboration and documentation platform. curated by us, the people behind Make: and the Maker Faire. it sticks into your light path. Overall, I'm very happy with the outcome of this project - focusing is now a joy. I then temporarily installed the secondary mirror so that I could measure the approximate distance to the center of the secondary in order to locate the holes for the focuser. 4 years ago Edited by Pierre Lemay, 25 May 2020 - 08:10 AM. The focal length of the mirror is 61 inches. ASIAIR - Is there an easy way to load Messier catalog into Autorun? I also decided to make a separate mounting plate for the stepper motor, since I figured aligning the shafts precisely would be all but impossible. The cutting diagram in (figure 1) shows how I cut the required pieces from two 60 X 60 pieces of Baltic Birch plywood, one inch thick, and one 5/8. Attach the ball head to the top board. The back of the mirror floats on 3 or more support points (this build uses 6) that are calculated usinga software tool called PLOP. After cutting the circles for the side bearings, I set up the jig to cut the curved edges of the rocker sides. I have several of the books on building a Dobsonian Telescope. The cage should be a hollow cylinder about wider than the mirror, with the focuser mounted directly facing the secondary mirror. Another vote for Pierre's helical Crayford design. I centered the focuser 8 inches from the top of the tube, using a 2.5 inch hole drilling saw with smaller holes for the bolts that would hold the focuser. I did run into a small problem with the focuser. I did not glue the bearings to the tube box in case I needed to adjust the position later. Helicals are adaptable to both refractors and reflectors, but do not "play nice" with zoom eyepieces because "zooming" becomes a two handed operation to avoid changing focus. The version number "312" here may change if Robert posts new firmware. The base and the rocker box in my telescope are secured with a skate bearing assembly but could be more simply attached with a bolt through the center. I suppose that one could complete this project without these two tools, but it would be difficult to cut the pieces accurately enough for a good fit. I particularly like that the design can be integrated directly into the focuser board to make a very, very simple UTA. As it turned out, the mirror cell was too large to fit into my 14 inch sonotube.
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